The ICW 2021: Florida Northbound
Florida to Virginia
Motor-Sailing Over 1000 Miles inland due to contrary winds, the trip up the IntraCoastal Waterway (ICW) of the east coast USA was brief but scenic!
The plan was to head up the east coast of the US and he wanted to be in Atlantic City within one month of our departure for a family gathering. Sailing offshore, even with several stops along the way, the timing should have been sufficient if the winds cooperated. Unfortunately, we had NE winds the entire time (the direction we needed to sail), and we decided to motor along the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) so we could stay protected and make some progress. I was happy to stay on the inside as the boat was not equipped with some safety equipment that I feel is necessary for heading too far offshore, and motoring along the ICW gave me the opportunity to see the beauty of the coast.
May 1-3: Belle Isle
I arrived on May 1st and the boat was in an accessible anchorage south of Belle Isle off Miami Beach. It was an easy dinghy ride through the Collins canal directly across from a Publix supermarket, so perfect for provisioning. We stayed two nights so we could walk around the iconic South Beach neighborhood and have a meal at a Cuban Restaurant there – great food and terrific sangria. They brought us a bucket of warm plantain chips to munch while we waited for our Cuban sandwich, which were superb… love those things and they helped soak up the sangria. I was “tacking” a bit on the walk back to the dinghy, lol!
May 3-4: Belle Isle Miami Beach
We motored by downtown Miami and over to Biscayne Bay to fuel up and then anchor overnight before setting out on our passage. I didn’t want to do an overnight right off the bat since I didn’t know the boat or the skipper well enough to feel comfortable on a night passage. So, we planned two-day sails for starters and so that I could see manatees. The weather was nice and we had following winds and seas.
May 4-5: Lake Sylvia, Ft. Lauderdale
We sailed up to Ft. Lauderdale the first day passing an endless line of high-rise buildings. What a change from the sailing regions where I’ve been predominantly cruising in! We had an uncomfortable wind/wave angle and the boat and sails were rocking from side to side, but since we had gotten into the offshore current heading northbound, we were making great progress.
May 5-6: Lake Worth, near West Palm Beach
We continued outside sailing the next day, though the autopilot wasn’t happy about following winds and seas and the sails were flapping/slapping with the beam waves. In fact, two cars that hold the main sail to the mast broke under the tension. We probably had the sail sheeted out too far and there was too much sideway force each time we rolled with each wave. L We made it up to the West Palm Beach area, right across from Riviera Beach where friends just bought a new condo, though unfortunately, they weren’t there so couldn’t visit. We were there however, to see manatees at Peanut Beach. The wind and waves were up quite a bit by the time we anchored so we decided to wait until morning when it would be calmer before taking the dinghy over to explore.
We did get to see one (and only one) manatee. But at least I got to see one… my first one ever!!! It had a tag secured around his tail, probably to follow his migration. We found out that the season for them there was only winter months and until March 31st. The rest had obviously headed out. This guy was probably left behind because it was too embarrassing having a float attached, lol!
May 6-7: Hobie Sound, Jupiter FL
From Lake Worth and Peanut Island, we took the inside as the weather wasn’t good for an ocean passage. In fact, there were severe thunder storms and we were glad we could pull off the side of the road (off the ICW actually) and anchor for a bit. How fun to see all the homes and have a running commentary about which we liked and which we didn’t. We had lots of opportunities to wave to people on shore and on passing boats.
May 7-8: Fritz Island, Vero Beach, FL
Continuing up the ICW on the inside, as weather still wasn’t conducive for an outside passage, I enjoyed passing by and anchoring at Vero Beach where my Mom previously had a condo. We anchored in a marshy area and had to contend with no-see-ems (but definitely bite ems). Onward to Cocoa Village where I used to have a condo… eons ago!
May 8-9: Cocoa Village, FL
We anchored and dinghied over to shore in the early evening to provision up. It was a little bit of a push… we are on a mission to make progress up to NJ by June 5th, so not as relaxing and pleasant a cruise as I’d like.
May 9-10: New Symrna Beach, FL
We sailed the entire day as we transited Mosquito Lagoon and watched as a small speed boat with an oversized outboard and two oversized people got swamped and capsized. They were close enough to shore to be safe and another small boat came to help. We couldn’t have gotten out of the channel to help as it was too shallow for us.
May 10–12: St. Augustine, FL
We finally had a full day to stop and I could be a tourist in the historic city of St. Augustine. We took a mooring just north of the Bridge of Lions and spent the day looking at the historic sites as well as a stop at West Marine for parts to repair the cars on the main sail. It’s hard to believe that I lived in Orlando Florida for nine years and I never visited St. Augustine. It was nice but also had a very touristy section. One day was enough, walking all over the place, though I could have spent more time if we weren’t on the move with a schedule. We fueled up in the morning and headed out. It was a motoring day as the winds were clocking around to the north then northeast where a front was heading our way… why we are still in the ICW. I know Mark would like to make more progress getting north, but he’s also not taking risks or putting us in an uncomfortable situation. Thanks Mark. 🙂
May 12-13: Georgia!!! Cumberland Island
The evening of the 12th we motored across the state line into Georgia after passing by Jacksonville. I waved over to the west just south of that to Green Cove Springs which is my “home port”.
The storm caught up to us and brought chilly winds and rain from the north, so despite it being mid-May, I’m in long pants, sweatshirt and socks. There were wild horses on shore as we sailed by. We’re deciding whether to sit it out another day here or make a little progress between rainstorms.
May 13-14: Lanier Island, Mackey River
We left at noon as the weather improved, crossed Sapelo Sound and crossed St. Andrew’s sound and passed Jekyll Island, crossed St. Simon sound and anchored at Lanier Island near Brunswick.
May14-15: South Newport River near St. Catherine’s Island
Meandering along, and winding this way and that, we eventually anchored off the South Newport River. It was a clear evening and beautiful sunset and we saw the international space station cruise by in an orbit just overhead, wow!!! It was so bright… what a surprise sighting.
May 15-16: South Carolina! Bull Creek inlet by Daufuskie Island
We passed Thunderbolt and Savannah (which was upriver, so we couldn’t actually see it) and over into South Carolina. We anchored in a little inlet popular for dolphin and sunset tour boats and as we anchored, I saw two rays jump out of the water and splash back in. So cool!!!
May 16-17: Toogoodoo creek off of the North Edisto River
We motored along zigging and zagging into a light wind and anchored in a quiet little creek just before sunset South of Charleston. We may hop out if the weather is good for an outside passage or continue motoring inside the ICW, which would be cool so I could at least see the city since we aren’t going to stop there either way… too bad we are on a tight schedule as I would have loved to have done the trip in a relaxed time frame and exploring along the way. Oh well.
The winds were continuing to show NE and we decided to continue motoring the ICW. We cruised past Charleston and would make as much progress as possible with available daylight. Along the way, just past McClellanville, we spotted our first alligator and a good sized one at that!!! We have seen tons of small dolphin, lots of pelican and even bald eagles in addition to the normal assortment of sea birds. Yay!!!
May 17-18: North Santee River
We anchored in the North Santee River just before sunset and quickly realized we needed to put the screens in the companionway as the mozzies were starting to get active. Luckily, we were able to get rid of the few that snuck in the cabin and had a comfortable evening.
We continue north today mostly along the Wacama river in serene low country snaking along the river and keeping a lookout for gators, bald eagles and other river wildlife. We should be in northern South Carolina this evening. We are making progress! All of a sudden, the landscape changes and there are cypress trees with jutting knees everywhere. The palms give way to pines and marsh to forest. The water starts getting the tea-colored look with the tannins from the trees. Along the way we spot turtles sunning themselves on stumps or logs… 2 on this one and 11 lined up on a long log.
We are making good progress motor-sailing and decide to continue up further than planned. We may not make it before dusk but hope we can set anchor before dark.
May 18-19: Calabash River, Little River, NC
With tides low, we still managed to find a place to pull off the side of the ICW and anchor. As the days melt into weeks and we motor for most of the daylight, memories blur. The sunsets are lovely and the dolphins are plentiful, so that’s always a joy!
May 19-20: Top Sail Island, NC
We are trying to push along with haste and because Mark has an unplanned trip now scheduled in, there’s even more pressure to make progress… and we do.
May 20-21: Free Dock by The Great Bridge bridge, NC
We’re lucky to find a space along the free dock by the Great Bridge bridge. We’ll leave early (but not as early as Mark originally proposed) to get through the Bascule (lifting) bridge and then go through the only lock we’ll transit on this journey.
May 21-22: Alligator River, NC
We have a long day and motor-sail across two large bays known for their short steep waves, a combination of winds opposing waves and very shallow water. We continue along a long canal and finally drop the anchor just as the sun drops below the horizon.
The next morning, Mark lifts the anchor at first light. It’s chilly and foggy with lots of little bugs, but happily not biting ones. He reports this to me later when I finally emerge. I slept in a bit as there wasn’t any reason for both of us to be cold, wet and miserable in the early morning fog. Mark is happier to be at the helm, and I’ve kept myself busy preparing meals, doing my workout while underway and generally watching the scenery go by. I would have much preferred to do this voyage at a leisurely pace (sorry, recurring theme here, lol) and seen the sights along the way, but at least I have the opportunity to experience the ICW from the water side!
May 23-31: Hampton, VA
We make our way up to the Norfolk VA area and move from serene quiet views to full-on naval industrial landscapes! Coming our way is the largest container ship we have ever seen! We also see a few subs and aircraft carriers docked for repair and/or waiting for a reason to be sent off on a mission.
We took a slip at the city docks in Hampton for the few days Mark was traveling and after over 3 weeks, I was able to do laundry, clean some and just rest up. Mark was continuing on, but I flew out. Thanks Mark for the opportunity to see almost the entire ICW!!!