South Africa 2017: The Cape of Good Hope
Richards Bay to Cape Town, around the Cape of South Africa
I am choosing adventure. I am taking myself out of the Med and seriously out of my comfort zone. I could have chosen to remain there, where I have a visa which allows me to stay in Schengen until the end of October this year. I had two lovely invitations to sail the summer months, one in Greece and the other in NW France and where I could have crossed the Atlantic gently, at the right time of year, and in the northern hemisphere. But when it really came down to it, and when I envisioned myself having made either of those choices, I was sure I would regret not having gone for this opportunity… sailing around South Africa and the Cape of Good Hope. It’s early in the season, and a dicey bit of sailing, with the very real possibility of perishing in freak monster waves while traversing the notorious Agulhas current.
Okay so there’s that, and then there is the thought that this is the chance of a lifetime. The sailing alone is adventure enough, but add to it the chance to go on safari and spend two months in a new remote land, and it’s an amazing and wonderful opportunity. I want to experience nights under the starry African skies, see big beautiful wild animals roaming free, learn about the people and cultures… and simply be in an exotic and wild part of the planet I never thought I’d visit. And then, there is simply the adventure and romance of having the courage it takes to say “yes!” to something big, despite one’s fears and limitations.
So, I chose this boat, a lovely 43’ catamaran; and her owner/skipper Jose, a successful businessman/rancher/sailor from Chile. We will be three on board, with Becky as the other crew member. I am sure I will feel the magic of Africa, and have “Good Hope” (sailing around the Cape of Good Hope) for an awesome experience!
Richards Bay and Umfolozi/Hluhluwe National Park 23 July – 3 August
I flew in to Richards Bay on Sunday and Jose met me at the airport. We headed back to the boat with my two extremely large duffels (well, it’s ALL my stuff, you know) and made it on board with them safely. I met Becky, my new crew-mate and started to get settled in. We spent the week provisioning and planning and getting to know one another, and sorting out electronics and engine issues. Somehow the time sped by.
We met a couple, Jeff and Anne. They are missionaries and Anne is an artist. She uses her creativity as a vehicle to spread the word of Christ. In this way, Becky and I had an art lesson and got a little preaching along with it. Or, was it the other way around? It was worth it, as we learned how to draw what Anne calls, “Happy Critters”, which are totally adorable.
I planned a 2-day safari for us at the combined Umfolozi/Hluhluwe National Park and a 2-hour cruise through the St. Lucia estuary for hippo watching.
We rented an SUV (required to get to the lodge we were staying at) and drove to the park. Along the way we stopped at the Cheetah Project, where they rehabilitate, breed, and release wild cats. The cheetahs were beautiful and we were even able to pet a cevit cat, which I had seen in the Kruger park!
We continued into Hluhluwe Park at the north and made our way south into the Umfolozi Park. We immediately saw rhinos and zebras 😊 but I was surprised we didn’t see any ellies. We checked in at the Mpila lodge and then backtracked about 15km to the Neselwane complex of tent lodgings. We had #10, which for an extra $15, gave us a full river view and a most remote and private location. It couldn’t have been lovelier! All glassed in on the front, beautiful terrace, and everything we needed in the kitchen. I wish that we could have stayed for a few nights, but we only stayed one. We had a bite and then set off for our night safari. We saw beautiful rhinos, water buffalo, and a variety of kudu. Then the next morning we headed off again for our morning safari. As we set off for our trip to St. Lucia and the hippos that awaited us, we drove in search of lions. We didn’t find them, but did find a herd of rhinos (are a group of rhinos actually a herd?… need to check that).
Off to St. Lucia and the hippos we went, and we were certainly not disappointed! We boarded a little river boat with about 20 people and cast off. Our first group was a delight, with two youngsters frolicking and play fighting. We then headed up to see crocs before continuing on to the next hippo gathering and sighting. Ears, nostrils, eyes and backs, plus one fellow snoozing on shore. All wonderful!
Richards Bay to Durban 2 – 3 August (80 nm)
Off we go on my first passage in South Africa!!! We set out at 3PM with a good weather window and as the wind just began to change, clocking around from south to east then around to NE where it should give us a nice push along. We had a great overnight sail. We saw and heard whales and Becky and I stretched out on the cabin top gazing at stars and chatting. We arrived earlier than expect – Thurs late afternoon.
We went through the check-in procedure and got temporary membership cards for the Point Yacht Club. Through a CrewBay contact, I got the name of Laura who invited us to a Sunday afternoon gathering of the Singles Social Club (I thought it was a Sailing Social club, but no one sailed except the guy who introduced me to Laura!) There was a live band but after a bit we were all ready to go. While in Durban we met some wonderful folks with whom I hope to stay in touch. We also had a bit of inter-personal drama aboard, but were able to sort it out after a bit. The following day we coordinated our departure with a gaggle of boats heading the same way.
Durban to Port Elizabeth 7 – 10 August (402 nm)
The stretch of water form Richards Bay to Durban is called the “Wild Coast” because it is here that one is most likely to encounter freak monster waves… gulp. The wind was good and we had a following sea.
We grilled veggies and sweet potatoes and heated up some chicken as well. We were fed and had everything cleaned up and stowed before dark. As the evening progressed, the seas began to build some but the auto pilot was tough and steered well.
By the next morning, the seas had built up further – somewhat uncomfortable with the waves on our stern and the auto pilot was working a little harder. We pulled in some sail and changed course a bit so that we were taking the waves on the quarter not straight behind, which really improved the comfort. The seas were short and steep for most of two days and then the third morning the sun came out and the waves calmed. We were in radio contact with Paul’s boat (he’s a delivery captain and was on his way to the Caribbean) for most of the way and had them just off our port beam the last day. We really enjoyed the final stretch of the sail and arrived into Port Elizabeth in the late afternoon. Since they arrived just before us, Paul met us along the Chocka (what they call squidders) boat quay to help us get situated. We were also met by Leon, a contact we made through our neighboring boat in Durban.
We were the third boat out, tied to two chocka boats, which meant crawling under and over lines and weaving around to get to the quay. Once secure, we set about preparing for an evening BBQ. We invited the other boats’ crew and had a wonderful festive evening with heaps of grilled meats and veggies plus Irish coffees (well, more like Scotch coffee) with some Johnny Walker Black that Paul had gifted us. After two days and nights of sailing we did well to put on such a great soiree without any additional provisioning (or sufficient sleep!)
We met a number of lovely people at the Algoa Bay Yacht Club and the showers had good hot water (very important after a passage). A variety of workers descended upon the boat the next morning to take a look at electrical issue, engine filter, and radio, so it was a flurry of activity on board. Becky and I whipped up brekky for 6 and everyone was well fed and pleased. On Friday, Leon came on board and informed us he didn’t feel like working that day and that he would take us to the Addo Ellie Park not far off. I had a hair appointment and wanted to postpone the excursion until Becky set me straight and I realized that in fact, ellies were far more important than stylish hair… I rescheduled my hair appointment.
So off we drove, the four of us, in Leon’s truck headed for the game park. It started off slowly with not much to see, but then was a complete bonanza of ellies. We even saw a rhino off in the distance thanks to a car driving in the opposite direction who informed us. Becky and I were like 5-year-olds in the back seat with me jumping from side to side to get the best angle. Unfortunately, as I was leaning out the window to get a better shot, I dropped my camera face down onto the dirt road – end of camera with auto focus gear mechanism jammed. ☹ Okay, but onward with phone camera!
We noticed that we were leaking diesel while we had stopped to watch the big bull ellie walk by (above), but Jose and Leon were able to get it patched with a piece of tubing and some other bits, so we continued on. We enjoyed a nice dinner at a lodge just outside the park and then made out way back after a great outing.
The next day, I was able to reschedule with Liz at Fabuliz Hair Salon and also for the camera shop to check on whether mine could be repaired. It was possible but it would take a few weeks and could be expensive. Sigh. So I sucked it up and bought a new one – can’t be around ellies and rhinos or sailing by whales and penguins without a good zoom lens.
Liz and Grace turned out to be just lovely and we all had a grand old time. Liz took the extra color from my touch up and gave Becky some highlights (or rather low-lights), which she was delighted with. We also met Farida, a healer, who gave us some bits of reading and numerology, all of which resonated with us both. After three cups of tea, and now with beautiful hair and lifted spirits (and a new camera), we made our way back to pick up laundry and to the boat.
Having purchased a replacement camera in Port Elizabeth as well as a new larger SD memory card, I set about the task of downloading the photos I took in Addo from before the fateful fall and demise of my Nikon. I was anxious to see what the zoom captured in the distance and of the rhino in particular.
Although the photos aren’t as crisp as I’d like, I was dazzled and beyond excited to see that it was a black rhino!!!! All the others seen to date had been white rhinos, and not that I was being picky about my rhinos (all are adored and make my heart sing) but seeing the more endangered and shyer black beauties is something very special. Seeing any rhinos in Addo is rare, but to have witnessed a black one is amazing!!!! Despite the names, both black and white rhinos are all gray.
The difference is in the snout (white’s are square and blacks are pointy) and in the body shape and head position. Whites graze in open fields while blacks usually eat leaves from trees and are hence more often hidden behind trees. But look at this gorgeous guy to the right and below!!!
Port Elizabeth to Cape Town 17 – 20 August (438 nm)
The chocka boat we were tied to left the day before we did, so we pulled off and anchored in the bay that night to get an early start the next day. It was lovely to gently rock and bob around and I slept soundly until 5am when it was time to make way for our passage to Cape Town. I would have liked a slower trip, stopping in the few viable ports along the way, but Jose wanted to get to Cape Town sooner rather than later.
We had barely enough of a weather window, so needed to move along at a good clip of 7+ knots (which is realistic with follow winds and seas. We motor-sailed for the entire trip, first because the winds were light, then later to keep the pace up and stabilize through rough seas and 40+ knot winds. We kept in contact with Paul on his cat, and it was both pleasant and reassuring to compare thoughts and courses with him, a very experienced (with local knowledge) and professional delivery skipper.
Becky left the boat in Port Elizabeth and our new crew, Corne, was a bit under the weather (though not bad) for the first day we set out, but he was mostly fine after that. We got into a routine for shifts, and happily for me, Corne is a night owl so didn’t mind the 1am-4am shift, and then Jose took over from 4-7. It was cold and wet and rough, and we were all bundled up while on watch. I suppose it is to be expected, since it is still late winter, but it helped me solidify a decision I had been contemplating… not to want to proceed across the Atlantic this early in the season. Plus, I simply wasn’t ready to leave Africa yet!!!
We calculated that the trip (400NM) should take the better part of 3 days, but with the push of the strong Ahulhas current and the motoring along with sails, we arrived at the Cape of Good Hope at dawn on the second day. The sunrise was breathtaking over the eastern shore and the cape itself was beautiful and impressive. Jose and I stood together on deck and took in the beauty of the land while feeling glad to have safely made it around within the weather window, which was closing quickly. I told him I didn’t want to continue on after Cape Town, and he said he was actually also thinking it was too early and might leave the boat in South Africa until April, after his season at the ranch in Chile. All good… I didn’t feel I was leaving him in a lurch and he was just as happy to return to his kids sooner rather than later.
Cape Town 20 – 31 August
I arranged for an Airbnb room in Cape Town starting the day after our arrival… I could have stayed on board with Jose, but felt I wanted some time on my own. I found a great little place for only $22/night! I stayed there for about a week. Jose and I took the hop on hop off bus for a tour around town and up to Table Mountain for a most amazing view of the entire city and cape. We enjoyed roaming around the Victoria and Albert waterfront area (where the boat was) and talked about planning a safari together before going our separate ways. I also planned a day-trip on the red bus “Cape Explorer”, which took me to Boulder Beach – home of the South African Penguin colony (yippee PENGUINS!!!!), on the way to Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. It was a delightful day and the penguins were, of course, the highlight for me! On that day trip, I met a young woman who told me about a different sort of camping safari than what Jose and I were discussing, more “basic” (read: rustic), further afield, and longer. As it turned out, Jose wouldn’t have been able to get a visa to go on our original safari, and would plan to do that next season with his kids. So change in plans!
Cute little fellows like the one below (left) were on top of Table Mountain. But we didn’t need to go that far to find wild life, LOL, as these big bruisers (right) were basking in the sun on the slip near the boat… just like SF!
Off for my camping safari!
Thank you Jose, for this amazing experience and opportunity to sail the Cape of Good Hope. I might never have ventured to Africa and that would have been a huge loss. Thanks also for being a great skipper and sailing friend!